The Path of the Gods
We arranged a taxi to collect us at 8am and drop us off at Bombarina HotelGentile, the start of our Path of the Gods back to Casa Monticello. It was a cold morning of low cloud and our driver took us along the Amalfi coast in a huge Mercedes people carrier. Fantastic to be a passenger and enjoy the view.
An hour and 20 mins later we have climbed up to Allegero and Bombarina and dropped off at the Hotel gentile.
A cappuccino is needed to warm us up and then we start the walk in cold shadow.
We stop when we feel some warmth from the sun and already bump into an Italian group on the walk.
A few steps (of course) and we are above the clouds enjoying the view of the gods. The sun begins to burn away the clouds and the views become spectacular.
The path is well used and well maintained. There’s plenty of steps down and then up and a path around before some more. Some steps are concrete, most are rocks. The distraction of the views makes it way too easy to twist an ankle, or fall off the sheer cliff face. One moment in blazing sunlight the next in cold shadow. Such a beautiful and glorious day.
Donkeys, mules and horses pass carrying loads of shopping, bricks, flour or timber.
Young, loud mouthed Americans appear behind with more to say than necessary and not about the views but about their inane life. We know because we can hear for half a mile behind to in front.
We waited for them to pass out of hearing whilst enjoying the view.
Faced with the choice of the higher or lower trail we choose the lower as a loud group just chose the higher and we, mistakenly, thought that the lower would be quieter.
We enjoy our chocolate croissant for a sustenance boost and watch a man load his pony with sacks of flour and then carefully ply the route up to his house.
I am surprised with just how many people walk! The walking groups of Brits and Europeans I can understand, but families of four who wear gear appropriate for city streets are here. Kudos to them, they are walking. And amazingly, so few are stubbing on their phones. Using them for photos and perhaps the map, but not selfies galore.
We stop above Praino and now it seems that the crowds of walking groups are coming. We wait to let them pass, but then there are so many that we decide to head off too, there is now, no chance of being alone on the path of the gods.
After 4k, the previous days of steps are beginning to tell on our aching muscles and we slow down to the pace of a group of old brits (yes, even older than me!)
we are approaching Nocelle and the promise of a freshly squeezed lemon juice. We see Positano clinging to the rock face ahead and suddenly the path is even ground and easy walking, turning to concrete and the lemonade shack is there as promised and open.
A very refreshing orange and lemon juice mixed, topped with aqua mineralle gasseuse, hits the spot.
We contemplate the bus from Nocelle back up to Montepertuso. Thank God we are not heading down the steps to Positano as most of these walkers intend.
The last bit of the path of the gods is steps up and down and round just below the road and then we join the road and the temptation of the bus again looms.
But no, we head down the last 10 minutes of the road into Montepertuso to grab some breakfast provisions for tomorrow from the mini mart before they close for siesta.
Then the short 500m back to Cas Montecello to repare lunch on the terrazo.
9km all in. plenty of ups and downs and some of the most breathtaking views possible in a lifetime.
Thank you Lord Jesus for the chance to do this, healthy and fit.
A once in a lifetime walk. Worth the aching muscles and preparation.
Also published on Medium.